Monday Pet Tip: Halloween Decorations

Halloween is probably the most fun holiday to decorate for - you can really unleash your creativity! And who doesn't love a spooky, Gothic decor? Here are a few tips to help keep your pet's safety in mind while decorating:

• Be cautious when using candles. Pets can easily knock over a lit pumpkin and cause a fire. Curious kittens especially run the risk of being burned or singed by candle flames.

• Keep wires and cords from electric lights and decorations out of reach to avoid electrical shock. Puppies especially love to chew cords.

• Pumpkins and squashes are not necessarily toxic to pets but can cause stomach upset if digested.

What are your favorite Halloween decorations?

Monday Pet Tip: Going to the Vet

Okay, we can go to the vet's . . . but only if I drive!

Here are a couple of tips to help your dog or cat get used to going to the vet. We'll start with the dogs and then move on to the cats! 

I binged on treats this week.

You can help ease your dog's anxiety about visiting the vet office by making frequent visits that aren't medically related. For example, stopping by to walk around the area, say hello to staff, and then reward your dog with a treat before you leave. Another great idea is to stop by and weigh your dog on our scale. Remember to reward them each trip. Short frequent trips where nothing "bad" happens and with lots of positive reinforcement can really make the difference!  It's the most effective when you start this practice with puppies.

You can't make me go!

See, it's not so bad!

With cats, it is a little bit trickier since they tend to be more stressed out by car rides than their canine counterparts. One idea is to just leave the carrier open and out in the house for your cat to explore on their own. Put a soft blanket, some catnip, and treats in the carrier to help entice them inside. You can even leave the carrier out all the time to really downgrade its kitty cat threat level.  This may help your feline friend start to see the carrier as a safe place as opposed to a reason for them to run and hide!

What has helped your dog or cat get used to trips to the vet? Please share your suggestions with us in the comments - we would love to hear!

Monday Pet Tip!

Monday Pet Tip: Trim your pet's toe nails frequently! There are many benefits to this. First, the more frequently you handle your pet's paws and trim their nails, the more used to the process they will become. Hopefully, with regularity a squirmy or unruly pet will learn to calm down. Secondly, trimming the nails often helps keep the "quick" from growing out. The quick is the area that provides the blood supply and nerves for the toe nail. When pet's toe nails bleed it is because the quick has been nicked. It is much more difficult to avoid nicking the quick when it has grown long. Lastly, frequent toe nail trims means short nails all the time -a major plus for most pet owners! 

 P.S. If you do happen to cut into the quick when trimming your pet's nails - don't worry; accidents happen. To stop the bleeding you can keep a store bought styptic powder such as Kwik-Stop on hand or use a home remedy such as flour or baby powder. 

Monday Pet Tip: Diarrhea and Your Pet

What is diarrhea?

Diarrhea is the passage of feces as unformed or loose stools, usually in increased volume and frequency of passage. It is a result of increased speed of passage of fecal material through the intestine combined with decreased absorption of water, nutrients and electrolytes. There are many causes of diarrhea. Diarrhea may occur as the only sign or in combination with other signs of more widespread disease, or with symptoms that result from prolonged or severe diarrhea.

What causes diarrhea?

Diarrhea is not a disease in itself but a clinical sign that may reflect one or more of many different problems. Most involve some degree of inflammation of one or more sections of the alimentary or gastro-intestinal (GI) tract. The GI tract is the continuous tube that carries food from mouth to anus. Inflammation can be caused by infectious agents such as bacteria, viruses, coccidia, and intestinal worms, or by non-infectious irritants such as chemical toxins, poisonous plants, and so on. Allergies to certain specific components of a diet may be responsible for diarrhea. Changes in diet can lead to temporary changes in the stool. If frequent liquid or semi-liquid stools persist for more than two days, you should consult your veterinarian. Diarrhea may occur as a sole symptom or as one of several symptoms of a more generalized disease problem. Many mild cases of diarrhea can be resolved quickly with simple treatments. Others are the result of serious or life-threatening illnesses such as cancer. Even diarrhea caused by mild illnesses may become fatal if treatment is not begun early enough to prevent severe fluid and nutrient losses.

When should I bring my pet to the vet?

Your veterinarian will attempt to determine how sick your pet has become as a consequence of the diarrhea. If your pet has experienced diarrhea for two or more days or any of the following symptoms are experienced in conjunction with the diarrhea, it is important to schedule an appointment with a veterinarian:

• Vomiting

• Dehydration

• Loss of appetite

• Abdominal pain

• Fever

• Lethargy

• Bloody and/or watery diarrhea

What types of tests are performed to find the cause of my pet’s diarrhea?

If diarrhea is associated with several of the above signs, your veterinarian will perform a series of tests in order to make a diagnosis. This permits specific disease treatment. Diagnostic tests may include microscopic fecal evaluation, abdominal radiography (x-rays) with or without barium, blood tests, fecal cultures, biopsies of the intestinal tract, video endoscopy, ultrasound and exploratory abdominal surgery. Once the diagnosis is known, treatment may include special medications, diets, or surgery.

If your pet does not appear systemically ill from diarrhea, the cause may be less serious. Some of the minor causes of diarrhea include stomach or intestinal viruses, intestinal parasites, and dietary indiscretions (such as a change in diet or eating garbage or other offensive or irritating materials). A minimum number of tests are performed to rule out certain parasites and infections. These cases may be treated with drugs to control the motility of the intestinal tract, drugs that relieve inflammation in the intestinal tract, and, often, a special diet for a few days. This approach allows the body's healing mechanisms to correct the problem. If your pet is not improving within two to four days, a change in medication or further tests may be necessary.  It is important to keep your veterinary clinic updated about your pet’s progress to optimize its recovery.

 How is the cause of diarrhea determined?

It is important to provide your veterinarian with a detailed medical history. Ideally you should write this out in chronological order before you go to the clinic. Be as detailed as possible on the date you first noticed a problem, even in retrospect. Also report the progression of the clinical signs. Note any changes in the normal routine of your pet or your household. How frequent are the stools? What is the color, consistency, and smell of the feces? Is your pet showing any other signs such as vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy, or loss of weight? We have a checklist to help you put this history together.

Besides a thorough clinical exam, your veterinarian may recommend additional diagnostic tests. These tests may be deferred in mild cases of diarrhea unless initial treatment fails or the condition worsens. Tests may include blood work, stool and rectal swab samples for parasite examination and culture, radiographs, and endoscope exam.

How is diarrhea treated?

Initially, and often in advance of in-depth work-up, a non-specific approach may be adopted. It is a good idea to withhold food for twenty-four hours and encourage water consumption. Gradually reintroduce small quantities of a light, easily digestible diet. Boiled rice or other pasta with some boiled skinless chicken may be given if a special veterinary diet is not available. Anti-diarrheal medication may be used to help speed your pet’s recovery. Many cases of diarrhea will respond quite readily to simple treatment, without the initial cause ever being established. As the stools return to normal, your pet’s regular diet can be gradually reintroduced, mixed initially with the bland rice-chicken or similar diet.

If there is little or no improvement over two or three days, if your pet is not taking any water or if the pet’s health worsens, then your veterinarian should be notified at once. Treatment may be more aggressive based on the results of an in-depth clinical work-up as outlined above. Loss of fluid is one of the most serious aspects of severe or prolonged diarrhea, and if vomiting is present, dehydration can rapidly escalate. Correcting the dehydration may require intravenous or subcutaneous fluids.

Can I use anti-diarrheal medications from the human pharmacy?

Some of the preparations recommended for people are very dangerous for pets so never use a medication without consulting your veterinarian first. Products containing ASA or acetaminophen are extremely toxic in cats and can be harmful to dogs as well.

My pet has chronic diarrhea. Will it get better?

Chronic diarrhea that has been present for two to three weeks or longer may prove more difficult to diagnose and to treat effectively. Even extensive work-up does not always provide a definitive answer to the problem. But in many cases a thorough clinical work-up, including food trials, can result in a successful outcome.

 

DIARRHEA CASE HISTORY CHECKLIST

In order for us to narrow down the cause of diarrhea in your pet, please answer the following questions as accurately as possible and bring this information with you to your pet's appointment. If you are not certain about the answer please indicate “approximately” or “not sure”.

Timing

• How long has the diarrhea been present?

• Is the diarrhea more severe now than a few days ago?

Frequency and Nature of Stool

Consistency:

• Watery stool

• Stool is the thickness of pancake batter

Blood:

• Very bloody stool

• Only sporadic blood present

• Blood not present in stool

• Bright red blood present

• Dark, tarry blood present

Degree/Frequency:

• Entire stool is soft or watery

• Only portions of the stool are soft or watery

• Diarrhea with each bowel movement

• Diarrhea is sporadic (some bowel movements are normal)

• Only 1 or 2 bowel movements per day

• More than 4 bowel movements per day

Amount:

• Increased, large amount of stool

• Decreased or normal, small amounts of stool

Color:

• Stool is dark brown in color

• Stool is very pale in color

• Stool is black and tarry in appearance

Miscellaneous:

• Thick mucus or pieces of tissue present in stool

• Loss of bowel control (defecates in the house on the floor)

• Severe straining when having a bowel movement

• How powerful is the smell?

 Diet

• What is your pet's normal diet?

• Is your pet's appetite normal? If not, are they eating at all?

• What have you been feeding your pet during the last week? Include dog or cat foods, treats, table foods, milk, and anything else that you have fed your pet. Also state what percentage of the diet is each item or category.

• Does your pet have access to foods other than what you feed them? If so, what?

• Has there been a diet change in the last few weeks? If so, does that correspond with the onset of the diarrhea?

• Has the diet changed within the past two months?

• Do you feed your cat milk?

• Did you feed your pet table scraps within the past two weeks? If so, what?

• Has your pet gotten into any off-limits food recently?

• Does your cat hunt and eat prey?

General health

• When was your pet last vaccinated?

• Are there any other signs of illness?

• Is your pet as active as normal?

• Describe any change in water consumption (increased or decreased).

• When did you first notice any other signs of illness?

• Has there been any weight loss? If so, over what period?

• Have you seen any vomiting? If so, how frequently and for how long?

• Does your pet go outside your house?

• Does your pet go outside your yard?

• Does your pet have access to garbage cans, either within your house or yard or outside your yard?

• Does your pet have toys that it plays with that it could have swallowed?

• Does your pet have access to sewing materials, such as thread or needles, rubber bands, or string?

• Do you have other dogs or cats that live with this one? If so, does the other pet have diarrhea?

• Do any other animals in your house currently have a diarrhea problem?

Monday Pet Tip: Tartar Control Treats for Cats

Are you looking for some treats for your kitty that are healthy, good for their teeth, as well as tasty? The  Veterinary Oral Health Council recommends feline CET Chew treats. Theses treats have a clear coating that contains a special enzyme treatment that helps destroy plaque. The rest if the chew is simply freeze-dried catfish (stinky to us but delicious for our feline friends!).

Here are a few tips to help your cat enjoy CET Chews (in case they don't take to the treat initially):

• Press the chew between your fingers before giving it to your cat (it releases the odor of the chew).
• Break the chew into two pieces (some cats prefer a smaller chew).
• Add 1 to 2 drops of water to the chew.
• Add 1 to 2 drops of water to the chew and then heat the chew for just a FEW seconds in the microwave. 

Most cats will have no trouble eating the entire chew. Best of all these treats are available over the counter here at Bishop Ranch veterinary Center & Urgent Care - and in the month of February all dental products are 25% off!

Monday Pet Tip: Preventive Diagnostics

Performing annual diagnostics such as blood panels, urine analysis, and intestinal parasite screenings are extremely valuable tools in identifying medical problems even before your pet shows any symptoms.  Our pets can’t always tell us how they are feeling, and they may not feel anything in the early stages of many treatable diseases.  Diagnostic screening profiles are the easiest and best way to get an overall picture of your pet’s health, and to track any changes over time.  This allows for earlier, less costly treatment options, and helps us to keep your pet as healthy as possible- for as long as possible.

Monday Pet Tip: Anal Glands

Have you noticed your dog dragging their bottom along the floor? Or perhaps a strong, foul odor is lurking around their hind end? Are they licking or chewing their bottoms excessively? This can be due to your pet’s anal glands not expelling fluid properly. The fluid is used for marking territory- hence the powerful odor. Normally, the fluid from the anal glands is expelled during defecation. If this does not occur, the fluid builds up in the glands causing irritation, itchiness, pain and infection. It is also possible for the anal glands to rupture. On top of that, licking and chewing can cause topical infections. 

If your dog is exhibiting any of these behaviors they may need to have their glands manually expressed. This is a simple procedure performed by a technician.  Sometimes, an examination with a veterinarian is necessary in order to determine if there is a more serious problem such as infection or an anal gland impaction. An impaction is when a bile duct to the gland becomes blocked. In the most extreme cases, surgery is required to remove the anal glands. This is called an anal sacculectomy. Fortunately, most dogs just need an appointment with a technician to help them out!

Monday Pet Tip: Bath Time

The best time to give your pet a bath is when they are tired. They should be more docile and cooperative after a hard day's play. Make sure they get some cool down time after their exercise and before the bath- but don't let them take a nap! Please share any successful bath time tips in the comments, we would love to hear what works for you!

Monday Pet Tip: Medicating Your Dog

Coaxing, pleading, begging- it's for the dogs! It can be a frustrating experience to convince your canine friend to take his daily dose of medication. We have gathered together some helpful tips and advice on how to make the process go as smoothly as possible.

 

LIQUID MEDICATIONS

The easiest way to give your dog a liquid medication is to mix it with some canned food. To ensure that the medication is swallowed, it is best to hand feed a small amount of food containing the medication, rather than a large portion that the dog may not completely consume. Some dogs may be unwilling to eat the food or may have dietary restrictions that prevent you from using this technique. If this is the case, you will need to administer the medication directly into your dog’s mouth.

Place your dog in a safe and comfortable area where it can be easily handled. Have the medication prepared and easily accessible. It is easiest to give liquid medication if you have a second person available to help you.

Make sure you have carefully read the prescription label and understand the dosing instructions. Most liquid medications should be gently shaken or mixed prior to drawing them into the dosing syringe.

Gently pull your dog’s lip away from the teeth and create a “pouch” along the side of the mouth.

Place the tip of the syringe in the side of the mouth, just behind one of the canine teeth and advance the syringe so that it is in the mouth just past the tooth line.

Slowly squeeze the syringe to dispense the liquid medication. Make sure you do this slowly so the dog has time to swallow the liquid and breathe normally.

Most dogs will spit out some of the medication. DO NOT re-medicate unless you are certain that NONE of the medication was taken.

Make sure you give your dog plenty of praise throughout the procedure and offer a treat or extra playtime after giving the medication. This will make the experience more positive and make it easier to give the medication the next time.

Rinse the dropper or syringe thoroughly with water and refrigerate the remaining medication if necessary.

PILLS/CAPSULES

The easiest way to give your dog a pill is to hide the pill in food. This usually works best if the pill is hidden in a small amount of canned dog food, peanut butter or cottage cheese, or you can purchase a product called "Pill Pockets" from our hospital, which is designed specifically for this. To ensure that the pill is swallowed, it is better to hand feed a small amount of food or the Pill Pocket that the dog is certain to eat rather than offering a large portion that the dog may not completely consume. Some dogs may spit out the pill, so it is important to carefully observe your pet after administering the medication.

If your dog persists in spitting out the pills or if dietary restrictions prevent you from hiding the pills in an appealing treat, you will need to administer the pill directly into your dog’s mouth.

Place your dog in a safe and comfortable area where it can be easily handled. Have the pill ready and easily accessible.

Make sure that you have carefully read the prescription label and understand the dosing instructions.

Hold the pill between your thumb and index finger (use your dominant hand – for example, if you are right-handed, use your right hand).

Gently grasp your dog’s muzzle from above with your other hand, by placing your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other side behind the canine teeth.

Once you have a firm but gentle grip, tilt your dog’s head toward the ceiling. The lower jaw will usually drop open. If not, open the mouth by placing the last two fingers of the hand holding the pill between the two lower canine teeth and pushing downward.

Quickly place the pill as far back over the tongue as possible. The pill is most likely to be swallowed if you place it beyond the hump of the tongue at the back of the mouth. Try not to place your hand too far back to avoid stimulating a gag reflex.

Close the dog’s mouth and hold it closed while you return the head to a normal position.

Gently rub the dog’s nose or throat, or blow lightly on the dog’s nose. This should stimulate swallowing.

The dog will be most cooperative if this procedure is performed quickly, in one smooth motion.

Make sure you give plenty of praise throughout the procedure and offer a treat or extra playtime after giving the medication. This will make the experience more positive and make it easier to give the medication the next time.

EYE DROPS

The proper administration of eye medications is essential for your pet’s prompt recovery. If your dog’s eye is painful, you may need to have someone assist you with restraint or you may need to place a muzzle on your dog.

Make sure that you wash your hands both before and after administering the medication to prevent the potential spread of infection.

Make sure you have carefully read the label and understand the prescription instructions.

Hold the bottle using your thumb and index finger. You may want to rest this hand on the top of the dog’s head to help stabilize it.

With your other hand, use your thumb to pull down the lower eyelid. Place your remaining fingers under the dog’s jaw to support the head. The lower eyelid acts as a pouch to receive the drops.

Hold the bottle close to the eye but make sure you DO NOT touch the eye’s surface.

Squeeze the prescribed number of drops onto the eyeball, aiming for the center of the eye. Release the head.

The dog will blink, spreading the medication over the surface of the eye.

Make sure you give your dog plenty of praise throughout the procedure and offer a treat when you are finished.

EAR DROPS

Administering ear medications to your dog can be challenging. Remember that your pet’s ears may be painful and that even a normally gentle and passive dog may respond by struggling, biting or scratching. You may need to muzzle your dog for this procedure.

Warm any refrigerated medication by placing the bottle in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes.

Make sure you have carefully read the label and understand the prescription instructions.

Squeeze the liquid medication into the dropper or prepare the squeeze bottle as directed.

Gently pull the ear flap straight up using your other hand.

Apply the prescribed number of drops into the ear canal while continuing to keep the ear flap elevated.

Rub the base of the ear against the head in a circular motion. Be cautious and gentle as your dog may object to this procedure. You should hear a “squishing” sound as you massage the medication deep into the ear canal.

Release the ear and let your dog shake its head. If the medication contains a wax solvent, debris will be dissolved so it can be shaken out.

Make sure you give your dog plenty of praise throughout the procedure and offer a treat after giving the medication.

APPLYING CREAMS, OINTMENTS & LOTIONS

Applying topical medications to your pet can sometimes be a challenge. The information provided in this handout may help make treating your pet easier – for both of you.

What is the difference between creams, ointments and lotions?

Creams are non-greasy. Ointments have an oily base. Lotions are liquid preparations.  All are similar as far as application is concerned. Creams, ointments and lotions are for external use only. It is important to prevent your pet from licking and swallowing them.

Be sure to follow any directions concerning application of the product, e.g. using gloves, etc. This is important since some veterinary preparations may be irritating to human skin.

My dog is perfectly fine until I try to put the preparation on and then he becomes very agitated.

This may represent discomfort or actual pain. It is always a good idea to get someone to hold your dog, especially when applying medications to a sensitive or painful area. If you prefer, your veterinarian can recommend several types of comfortable muzzles that you can use when treating your pet.

I can apply the preparation but my dog licks it off as soon as it is applied.

A good tip in this case is to apply the product just before the dog is fed. Another technique is to take your dog for a short walk immediately after applying the medication. Most topical preparations work better if they are gently massaged in for a few moments after application. If you still have trouble applying your pet’s medication, please contact us and we will supply you with an Elizabethan collar. These are large plastic hoods that prevent the dog from licking at the affected area.

I have tried an Elizabethan collar but my dog goes crazy with it on!

The majority of dogs are initially upset by the collar because of its bulky size and appearance. Try giving your dog a treat or taking him for a walk to distract him from the collar. Approximately 80% of dogs will tolerate a collar with few problems.

Monday Pet Tip: Administering Medications to Your Cat

It can be quite a challenge to medicate your cat- they are known for being quite willful, not to mention squirmy! We have put together some helpful tips to make administering medication to your cat as easy as possible. The tips are divided by type of medication: oral liquids, pills and capsules, eye medication, ear medication, and topical medications. If you have any tips that work great for you and your cat, please share in the comments! Next week we will go over tips for medicating your dog.

oral liquids

The easiest way to give your cat liquid medication is to mix it in with some canned food. To ensure that all of the medication is ingested, it is best to give a small amount of food that the cat is certain to eat rather than a large portion that the cat may not complete. Some cats may be unwilling to eat the food or may have dietary restrictions that prevent you from using this technique. If this is the case, you will need to administer the medication directly into the cat’s mouth.

• Prepare an area where you can safely handle your cat. Have the medication ready and in a place where it will be easily accessible. Make sure you have carefully read the prescription label and understand the dosing instructions.

•  Verify that you are administering the correct drug and amount. Shake the medication gently if required prior to drawing the medication into the syringe or dropper.

•  If you are administering the medication by yourself, you may find it easiest to place your cat in your lap. It may be advisable to restrain the cat by wrapping it in a blanket or towel with only its head exposed. The first few times, it may be helpful to have someone else hold the wrapped cat while you administer the medication.

•  Hold the syringe or dropper containing the medication with your dominant hand. First, allow the cat to lick the medication from the tip of the syringe as you slowly depress the plunger.

•  The cat may accept the medication more readily if it is warmed to room temperature.

•  If your cat is not interested in licking the liquid, gently take the cat by the scruff of the neck and pull the head back.  The mouth will then open slightly.

•  Place the tip of the syringe in the side of the mouth, just behind one of the canine (“fang”) teeth.

•  Advance the syringe so it is placed in the mouth just inside of the teeth. Be sure to angle the syringe slightly to the side. You do not want to forcefully inject the liquid straight into the back of the throat. This can increase the risk of the cat inhaling or aspirating the liquid.

•  Slowly squeeze the syringe to dispense the liquid medication. Make sure you do this slowly so the cat has time to swallow the liquid and breathe.

•  Most cats will spit out some of the medication. DO NOT re-medicate unless you are certain that NONE of the medication was taken.

•  Rinse the syringe out with warm water, and refrigerate if appropriate.

pills/capsules

The easiest way to give your cat a pill is to hide the pill in food. This usually works best if the pill is hidden in a small amount of tuna, salmon or cream cheese- or you can purchase a product called "Pill Pockets" from our hospital, which is designed specifically for this. To ensure that the pill is swallowed, it is best to place the pill in a small amount of food, or a Pill Pocket, that the cat is certain to eat rather than a large portion that the cat may not complete. Some cats may spit out the pill, so it is important to monitor this activity. If your cat persists in spitting out the pills or if dietary restrictions prevent you from hiding the pills in an appealing food or treat, you will need to administer the pill directly into the cat’s mouth.

• Prepare a safe place to handle your cat. Have the pill ready and in a place where it will be easily accessible.

•  If you are administering the medication on your own, you may find it easiest to place your cat in your lap. You may need to have someone assist you in restraining your cat by wrapping it in a blanket or towel with only the head exposed.

•  Make sure you have carefully read the label and understand the dosing instructions.

•  Lubricate or “grease” the pill with a very small amount of margarine or butter so it doesn’t stick in your cat’s mouth or throat and will be easier to swallow. This is very helpful with the administration of capsules.

•  Hold the pill between your thumb and index finger.

•  Gently grasp your cat’s head from above with your other hand, by placing your thumb on one side of the upper jaw and your fingers on the other. Tilt the cat’s head back over its shoulder so that its nose points to the ceiling. The jaw should drop open slightly.

•  With your pilling hand, use your little finger and ring finger to open the cat’s mouth further by gently putting pressure on the lower lip and front teeth.

•  Quickly place the pill as far back over the tongue as possible. Try to place it on the back one-third of the tongue to stimulate an automatic swallowing reflex.

•  Close the cat’s mouth and hold it closed while you return the head to a normal position.

•  Gently rub the cat’s nose or throat, or blow lightly on the nose. This should also help stimulate swallowing.

•  If you have trouble with this method of opening the mouth, try placing the cat on an elevated table. Hold the cat by the scruff of the neck and lift the front paws off of the table. The mouth will drop open. Quickly place the pill as far back on the tongue as possible, as in the previous method.

•  If you continue to experience difficulty, you may want to purchase a “pet piller” device or inquire if the medication can be compounded into a liquid. Most medications can be made into liquids with appealing flavors such as tuna, chicken, or salmon.

eye drops

• Make sure you have carefully read the label and understand the instructions.

•  Wash your hands before and after administering the medication to prevent the spread of infection. Gently clean the cat’s eyes with warm water and a washcloth prior to administering the eye drops.

•  If you are administering the medication on your own, you may find it easiest to place your cat in your lap. It may be advisable to restrain your cat by wrapping it in a blanket or towel with only its head exposed. It may be helpful to have someone else hold your cat while you apply the drops.

•  Hold the bottle using the thumb and index finger of your dominant hand with the tip pointed downwards. Be sure to keep the tip clean and do not allow it to contact the cat, the eye or any other surface. If this occurs, clean the tip by wiping it off with a clean cloth or ask your veterinarian for specific cleaning instructions.

•  Use the last two fingers of the same hand to pull back the upper eyelid. Place your remaining fingers under the cat’s jaw to support the head. The lower eyelid will act as a pouch to receive the drops.

•  Hold the bottle close to the eye but ensure you DO NOT touch the eye’s surface.

•  Squeeze the prescribed number of drops onto the eyeball, aiming for the center of the eye, and then release the head.

•  The cat will blink, spreading the medication over the surface of the eye.

 It is normal for your cat to blink or paw at the eye after administering the drops. If this persists or if the eye appears more inflamed or red after administration of the medication, consult with your veterinarian.

ear drops

• Make sure you have carefully read the label and understand the dosing instructions and the amount of liquid you are to instill into the ear.

•  Hold the cat securely in your lap. It may be advisable to restrain the cat by wrapping it in a blanket or towel with only its head exposed. The first few times, it may be helpful to have someone else hold the wrapped cat while you apply the drops.

•  Draw up the liquid into the dropper, if necessary. Hold the applicator or bottle between the thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand.

•  Use the last two fingers of the hand holding the dropper or bottle to hold the tip of the ear.

•  Place your remaining hand under the cat’s jaw to support the head.

•  Apply a small amount of medication into the ear canal. Be sure to place the tip as far into the ear canal as possible, unless the condition is confined to the outer portion of the ear.

•  Gently massage the base of the ear in a circular motion. Be cautious and gentle. The cat may not allow you to do this.

•  Release the ear and let your cat shake its head. If the medication contains a wax solvent, debris will be dissolved so it can be shaken out.

 Remember that the ear may be very painful and that your cat may respond by scratching or biting.

TOPICAL MEDICATIONS- CREAMS, OINTMENTS, LOTIONS

Creams are non-greasy, ointments have an oily base, and lotions are liquid preparations.  All are similar as far as application is concerned. Creams, ointments, and lotions are for external use only. It is important to prevent your pet from licking and swallowing them.  If necessary, you may need to use an Elizabethan collar to prevent this.

Be sure to follow any directions concerning application of the product, e.g. using gloves, etc. This is important since some veterinary preparations may be irritating to human skin.